Hi

I've been searching around and the measurements seem close but just curious if any one has a suggestion as to what case fits the E6 OM well?

Thanks!!!!

Acoustic Guitar Mag repair expert Mamie Minch has an article in this months April issue about buying used guitars.  I've sighted down the fretboard for years but never knew their was a word for doing that, Google 'foreshortening'.

I did a 3min eval yesterday of the AR805ce and knew right away I had a good one.  When I sighted (foreshortening, always close one eye) down the fret board I saw the 'relief' was perfect.... but, the bridge was way out of wack.  On an archtop the floating bridge is fully adjustable, the bass side screw had the bridge way too high and the treble side was almost as bad.  Standard 3/32" low E at the 12th fret was like 1/3".

In the top part of my pic you can see how the dots on the frets foreshorten as you go down the fretboard, artist learn about this in class 101.  Bottom part of pic is after I lowered the ebony bridge down to a tad under 3/32" of the bass side and 2/32" on the treble.

If you take along a straight edge, just lay in on the frets and see where it comes out in relation to the top of the bridge / bottom of the saddle.  If the straight edge is well below the top of the bridge..... walk, or negotiate the price of a neck reset.

forshorten if you forget a straight edge like I did yesterday, takes some practice but once you get the hang it will come in handy.  bert

Late yesterday afternoon this pic appeared on ATL CL for sale....



New pic this morning, standing next to E20OM-TC... 



Early bird gets the worm.

Hi guys,

So basically I'm looking for the best rosewood dread that 1200-1500-ish Euro's can buy. 
Can't beat Eastman in that respect. Coming from a Blueridge BR60 with an insanely thin neck and narrow nut, I need a chunkier neck and a 1,75 nut for finger picking. My dream guitar is a 2011 D28, so that's the sound I'm after. 

- Whats the biggest sound difference between the adi E20d and the sitka E8d?

- What's the nut width on your Eastman dread? I know the spec sheet says 1,75 but every reviewer says 'we measured it and in fact it's 1"11/16." (which would be too narrow for my playing style)
The e20d I once played and fell in love with felt spacey enough around the nut, just need to know if they somehow differ from guitar to guitar.

- I believe the E20d and E8d have a pre-drilled hole in the back for a pickup right? I remember there was a plug. 

Thanks guys, any input on the E8d vs the E20d is very much appreciated.

Anyone scoped out a supplier of custom truss rod covers for the Eastman guitars?

Thanks,

Tom

UPDATE: January 2023

Eastman has finally helped solve their mysterious s/n logic.

Serial Numbers>Can you provide a manufactured date based on my serial number? Eastman has had multiple serial number variations over the years. Here is a brief overview of our serial number systems. If your serial number does not fall under the criteria listed, please Contact Us.

• 2020 – Current
  • Letter designates product category, and first 2 digits are the year
    
• 2016 – 2019
  • 1st and 3rd number are the year. 2nd number is the month(s)
    • 1 = January/February
      
    • 2 = March/April
      
    • 3 = May/June
      
    • 4 = July/August
      
    • 5 = September/October
      
    • 6 = November/December
      
  • Example: 15712345
    • September/October of 2017
      
• 2014 – 2016
  • 1st and 4th digit are the year. 2nd and 3rd number designate the month.
    

My Eastman AC512, pictured on the right, has a more rounded OM body shape versus the traditional OM shape (as pictured with the E6OM).  I rather like the slightly more rounded OM shape.  It's not clear to me which Eastman models have this more rounded shape, but I can say that the 512 was made around the 2010 time frame (thus, it's a vintage Eastman?     ) 

Curious if anyone else has noticed the variation in OM body shapes in some of the earlier Eastman models? 

Well, it's been several months since I got my T-486. My initial nits remain but it gets played a lot. Considering that it resides in a stand next to a wall in my bedroom with some fairly respectable other brand semi hollow gits (or artwork as it is) hanging there that says a lot. 

The thing about the 486 is that even though there are things about it that bug me, they don't bug me enough to bother changing them.

I even went so far as to buy a set of much heavier tuners, and a very light aluminum tailpiece to help fix the body heavy character, and I have a Gibson 57 classic pup (as well as others) to dump the high voiced SD "Jazz" neck pickup, but even with these replacement parts in hand I am reluctant to change it. Why? because it "IS" different.

So far I've been able to adjust / compensate for its minor faults and changing it won't really fix anything that I cannot already tweak out.

I have my sound bases covered on Gibson branded stuff, so there's no need to try and duplicate any of them or other brands and the 486 just fits... like a comfortable pair of shoes, or well worn jeans, as much as or better than any other semi I own or have owned. 

Some little things I have come to appreciate about it are:

The pick guard. Yup, the PG. I use the PG to anchor my right hand and it doesn't flex or make noises like some I've owned, and the PG being bound rather than laminated is definitely an uplevel appointment seen only on "better" (read as high end) models from other companies. 

The bound Fretboard. Usually I could care less if a FB is ebony, rosewood, torrified maple, richlite or whatever. My fingers cannot tell the difference between them. I like to say I'm not sensitive, so much so I could likely sleep with an anvil under my mattress.

What I like about the 486 FB, is its finish. It's one of the most unusual FBs I've played, smooth as freshly polished glass and slides up the neck are definitely different on it. The only other neck I felt this way about was a 50's Goya Les Paul type that had an all plastic pearl type FB. Being new to Eastman I can't say if this finish is common or typical because my 165MX is definitely more typical of a Gibson... meh I do not notice it.

Eastman definitely has a winner with the 486, I wonder why the natural finish is discontinued though.

es-335_T-486.jpg

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several songs I sing require that I either transpose to a better key for me (alot of work for me) or use a capo. So I use a capo, then I can play with the same chord shapes and don't need to relearn a song. But I think that using a capo, generally muffles or a least changes the tone of a guitar significantly. Please comment if you have experience and an opinion about a capo's effect on tone. Thanks all.

You can now tag someone in a post using the "@" symbol.  This will create a link to their profile in the text of their message. Hope to add notification functionality at some point in the future.

Example: @"Meathead"

Cheers,
Tim